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Spring Countdown Strength and Conditioning Week 3

The third week of strength and conditioning training in preparation for another season of superior rock climbing

This last week saw climbing gyms return to operation in Alberta as the province’s daily case count dipped below 300. While Quebec and Ontario, Canada’s two other COVID hotspots, remain in the upper hundreds, this step is encouraging for climbers itching to return to the polyurethane many have literally dreamed about.

Even in these provinces, less populated areas are beginning to reopen their climbing gyms, leaving only the Metropolitan portions of the regions locked down under stay-at-home orders.Fortunately, the decreasing cases of coronavirus leave hope.

Should cases continue to drop, it is reasonable to presume that the lift of some lockdown orders will allow for a larger number of climbers to return to outdoor spaces. The unseasonably warm winter suggests a longer spring season, complete with comfortable zero-to-ten-degree temperature conditions. This perfect zone makes climbing enjoyable regardless of discipline.

Until that time, climbers do remain locked indoors, however, with a possible week away from stay-at-home orders lifting in Toronto, now is the best time to begin returning to climbing conditioning.

Week 3:

Week 3 will follow one of two schedules:

Low-Volume:

Day 1: Train
Day 2: Rest
Day 3: Train
Day 4: Rest
Day 5: Train
Day 6: Rest
Day 7: Rest

High-Volume:

Day 1: Train
Day 2: Train
Day 3: Rest
Day 4: Train
Day 5: Train
Day 6: Rest
Day 7: Rest

This week will reflect much of the same content as the weeks before; however, unlike the first weeks, those climbers operating at a higher difficulty will have the opportunity to work on more advanced skills. The climbers in the V0-V4 range will have the opportunity to increase their load to the same level as the V5-V8 climbers’ Week 1 routine.

V0-V4

  • 40-100 pull ups in as many sets as required, ideally sets of 10
  • 100 push ups in as many sets as required, ideally sets of 25
  • 100 hanging leg-lifts, in as many sets as required
  • Stretch

V5-V8

  • 3 sets of 5 assisted one-arm pull ups.
    • Tie a tether to the pull up bar. Grip it as low as is possible for you to be able to complete all 5 repetitions
    • Complete the above on either side
  • Finish out the 100 pull ups with regular grip: 30 one-arm assisted, 70 unassisted
  • 100 push ups in sets of 25
  • 100 leg lifts in sets of either 5 or 10 repetitions
  • Stretch

V8+ – V10/11

  • Hangboard
  • 3 sets of 5 assisted one-arm pull ups.
    • Tie a tether to the pull up bar. Grip it as low as is possible for you to be able to complete all 5 repetitions
    • Complete the above on either side
    • If you are able to complete one-arm pull ups unassisted, then try to complete a total of 5 on either side.
  • Finish out the 100 pull ups with body weight: 30 one-arm assisted, 70 unassisted;
    • Or 10 one-arm unassisted, 90 assisted
  • 100 push ups in under five minutes
  • 3 sets of front lever. Hold the position at highest possible angle. Each set should aim for 10 seconds. Rest as needed.
  • 100 leg lifts in sets of 10
  • Rings – bring as low as is possible to complete exercise in good form:
    • 3 sets of 10 compression flys
    • 3 sets of 10 superman flys
    • 3 sets of 10, reverse Y’s
  • Stretch

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