Stay-At-Home Climbing Training Routine: Day 20
Day 20 of a 28-day climbing-training routine for athletes looking to progress during self-isolation.
As we come up to the beginning of our fourth week, it becomes easier to see what our training cycles are likely to look like. What was once weeks appears like it might turn to months, and our training cycles might have to reflect that shift if that is the case.
Day 20 will be fairly high intensity, but strive for perfection in form on each of the exercises. Today and tomorrow are the final training days before our deload week.
Day 20:
It is important that this routine is done in the order it is written.
Warm Up:
- Warming up will likely differ between people, but these are a few good warm ups.
- Shoulder rolls
- Rotations: hold arms out perpendicular to the length of your body. Your arms should be parallel to the floor. Begin by rotating your wrists clockwise while your arms are straight. Then increase the rotation from the shoulders, maintain g your straight arms. Steadily increase the radius of rotation until your arms are wind milling, then reverse the direction.
- Hang on a bar and retract and relax your shoulders
- Complete a number of pull ups that would warm you up but not tire you out
Agonist muscles:
Once your biceps and shoulders are fully warm, or so warm that you could pull as hard as you would want, begin off-set pull ups.
Offset pull ups:
Offsets are designed to help you build one-arm power. Though we completed a few of these over the course of our conditioning period, we will adjust them for maximum output. For Day 20, hang a rope from your pull-up bar. Place your hand as low as you can on that rope. Either knot it or tape the rope so that you know your maximum offset distance between days.
- Complete 4 sets of 3 repetitions on each arm
- Rest for two to five minutes between each set, even between arms
- Be careful of your wrists during this period.
- If you are already capable of completing a one-arm pull up, then strive to complete between 6 and 10 one-arm pull ups, a side, separated by two-minutes rest.
- Rest for two to five minutes between each set, even between arms
Lock-Offs:
Once your offsets are complete, rest for five-minutes and begin your lock-offs.
Try and hold a lock-off with one arm bent at 90-degrees. If this is too challenging, complete the exercise in a full lock-off on one arm. If this is too difficult, complete ten negatives.
- Negatives: Hold a full lock-off with two arms at the top of the bar. Let one arm go and try and resist gravity with the other arm. You will either hold the lock-off or slowly descend to a straight arm position. The goal of a negative is to increase the time it takes to descend.
- Complete ten one-arm negatives on each side
- Lock Offs:
- If you are able to complete the lock-off, then…
- Aim to hold lock for 10 seconds. 3 sets a side.
Archer pull-ups:
Offsets are designed to help you build one-arm power, though they tend to increase the strain on your elbows. As a result, Day 20 will be defined by lower stress exercises that still seek to isolate our one-arm pulling power. This is to say that we will look to isolate the bicep, lat, and scapular muscles. Today we will increase reps as we reduce strain.
- Beginner: 20 repetitions over as many sets as required
- Intermediate: 60 repetitions in 10 sets
- Expert: 70 repetitions in 7 sets
Antagonist Muscles:
Push-ups: High Intensity
Complete 5, 7, or 10 repetitions depending on your skill level per exercise. Once that is established…
Complete the following exercises three times in a row for a total of nine sets. Your total push-up count for the day will be either 45, 63, or 90 repetitions.
- elbows-back push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
- diamond push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
- archer push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
Core:
For Day 20 we will maintain a fairly high level of repetitions in our core exercises. We will reduce this number slightly in an effort to perfect our form. On the leg-lifts especially, strive for perfect form. Remember, perfect form means no swing and straight legs.
Hanging leg-lifts:
Beginner: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring the legs up so that your body makes a 90-degree angle
Moderate: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring your feet to the bar
Expert: 10 sets of 10 repetitions: feet to bar
Cardio:
Run for 45 minutes at a moderate intensity.
Flexibility:
Hold each stretch for 15-30 seconds:
- Straddle Splits: This stretch is important to climbing as it increases a climber’s lateral flexibility for moves like stemming in a corner.
- Hamstring: keep your legs straight and bend down to your feet. Keep your back flat for an alternate version of this stretch.
- Hip-flexor: Flexible hip-flexors allow a climber to high-step.
- Quadricep: preventative against injury
- Triceps stretch: preventative against injury
- Shoulder stretch: increases mobility
- Calf stretch: increased heel-hooking mobility
Featured photo by @journey.of.wheelz