The Five Secrets of Indoor Training
Tips to help you train better this fall and winter
The weather in Canada is cooling down as we head into the first month of fall, which means there’s no better time to head to a gym and train. There are many ways to climb harder, but some things work better than others.
The rules for gym climbing in Canada vary during covid, but most gyms require you to book a time slot so be sure to plan ahead. Bring a mask just in case you have to wear one during your session.
These are five tips that can drastically change your climbing performance in a month period, especially if you have never tried them before.
Board Climbing
Whether you are pulling on a moon board or a systems board, this will help you become stronger. Commercial setting, or setting you would expect to find in the gym, requires the climber to hang underneath the holds and friction their way to the top. The advent of super sticky fiberglass has only increased the frequency of this style.
Board climbing is not like this, but instead forces the climber crush the holds and pull their hips into the wall. This three-to-five move style of climbing is challenging and is the anti-style of almost everyone that has never climbed on a board before. It tends to be so challenging that it makes for a climber to try hard.
Weighted Pull-Ups
Can you complete ten pull-ups without kicking your feet at the beginning of the session? If you can, then you are ready for weighted pull-ups. This exercise is useful if you are trying to push your grade on lead or boulders. Start by finding your three-rep maximum weight.
We do not really care about our one-rep max weight as climbing almost always involves pulling more than once. Complete three-to-four sets of three-to-five reps at that weight. When it has become easy, try increasing the weight. The most important aspect of any exercise is focusing on form as opposed to increasing weight. It is not about lifting 130 pounds, it is more about pushing your climbing closer to its limit.
Hanging from Pinches
In much the same way that board climbing forces the individual to try hard to complete a climb, hanging from pinches works to complete a similar objective. Pinch hangs are very difficult at first and you will likely need to take weight off with a resistance bands or a pulley system. If this is the case, do not worry.
Again, getting stronger is about getting stronger, not about styling the exercise. Try and take off enough weight so that you can only hang for ten seconds in a rep. Rest for at least two minutes between each repetition. Complete three total reps in a session, at the beginning of the session. What is most useful about this exercise is its difficulty. It allows the climber to try exceptionally hard with their body-weight alone. Hosoek Lee shows an exceptionally difficult version of this exercise below.
Volume Climbing
Climbing hard is frequently a result of climbing a lot. This is due to the familiarity with movement that occurs from climbing a variety of boulder problems or routes. Being able to climb V5 or 5.12b easily is simply a byproduct of having done so a lot.
Whether you are making up boulder problems for yourself, or simply climbing all of the routes in your gym a lot, volume is key to improving your forearm capacity and technique. If you find yourself projecting for the entire session, every session, perhaps mix it up with a little power-endurance.
Core
Your core is weak? Don’t worry, everyone’s core is weak. The most common mistake people make with core exercise is completing a high volume of an easy exercise. Instead of doing what you know is possible, increase the intensity and shorten the rest time. Sometimes, two sets of five-minute-core can be more beneficial than a half hour with a lot of rest. Your core is also more than your abdominals. It stretches around to your spine and can be greatly benefitted by dead-lifts and other exercises that require the activation of the glutes. You can train your abdominals daily.
Additionally
Fingerboard is also exceptionally helpful, but not for all people. See if Fingerboard is right for you here.
