The Power Cycle: Stay-At-Home Routine Day 5

Day 5:

Much like Day 2, Day 5 will consist of basic conditioning while we wait for our fingers to heal from this past week’s hangboard sessions. In today’s session, we will increase the conditioning load from Day 2 as we will have a rest day tomorrow and light conditioning the day after. We will fingerboard again on Day 8 after our hands have healed from the intensity of this past week.

Next week, we will look to complete a greater number of weighted exercises that will build power over fewer repetitions. It is important that you strive to complete each of the following conditioning exercises with good form. The routine should be completed in order.

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Thanks everyone for setting me boulders!! I probably have 300+ in my DMs right now, I’m trying to get to all of them before quarantine is over! ?? This has been a really fun exercise of unique movement because the climbs I set for myself tend to all have a similar style. I’ll keep posting my favorites to my story so keep an eye out for yours ?? ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ @ocun.climbing @mountainhardwear @penguinfingers #spacebunsaturday

A post shared by Kyra Condie (@kyra_condie) on Apr 19, 2020 at 11:18am PDT

Warm Up:

• Warming up will likely differ between people, but these are a few good warm ups.
  • Shoulder rolls
  • Rotations: hold arms out perpendicular to the length of your body. Your arms should be parallel to the floor. Begin by rotating your wrists clockwise while your arms are straight. Then increase the rotation from the shoulders, maintain g your straight arms. Steadily increase the radius of rotation until your arms are wind milling, then reverse the direction.
  • Hang on a bar and retract and relax your shoulders
    • Complete a number of pull ups that would warm you up but not tire you out

Agonist muscles:

Once your biceps and shoulders are fully warm, or so warm that you could pull as hard as you would want, begin off-set pull ups.

Pull-ups: High Intensity

Over the course of this routine, you will strive to complete each exercise, resting 30 seconds between exercises. You will work to complete all three pull up variations a total of three times in a row.

• Pull-up: complete 5-10 repetitions
• Wide grip: complete 5 – 10 repetitions
• Archer pull-up: complete 6 – 10 repetitions.
  • archer pull ups are defined by a wide grip. First engage your shoulders as you would while hanging from a wide-grip position. Once you have done so, complete a repetition by pulling up, and bringing your sternum in line with your left hand. Release, and complete your second repetition by bringing your sternum to your right hand.

Lock-Offs:

Once your offsets are complete, rest for five-minutes and begin your lock-offs.

Try and hold a lock-off with one arm bent at 90-degrees. If this is too challenging, complete the exercise in a full lock-off on one arm. If this is too difficult, complete ten negatives.

• Negatives: Hold a full lock-off with two arms at the top of the bar. Let one arm go and try and resist gravity with the other arm. You will either hold the lock-off or slowly descend to a straight arm position. The goal of a negative is to increase the time it takes to descend.
  • Complete ten one-arm negatives on each side
• Lock Offs:
  • If you are able to complete the lock-off, then…
  • Aim to hold lock for 10 seconds. 3 sets a side.

Antagonist Muscles:

Push-ups: High Intensity

Complete 5, 7, or 10 repetitions depending on your skill level per exercise. Once that is established…

Complete the following exercises three times in a row for a total of nine sets. Your total push-up count for the day will be either 45, 63, or 90 repetitions.

• elbows-back push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
• diamond push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds
• archer push-ups: complete 5-10 then rest 30 seconds

Core:

For Day 5 we will maintain a fairly high level of repetitions in our core exercises. We will reduce this number slightly in an effort to perfect our form. On the leg-lifts especially, strive for perfect form. Remember, perfect form means no swing and straight legs.

Hanging leg-lifts:

Beginner: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring the legs up so that your body makes a 90-degree angle

Moderate: 10 sets of 5 repetitions: bring your feet to the bar

Expert: 10 sets of 10 repetitions: feet to bar

The 5-minute Core Destroyer:

• One minute each of the following exercises:
  • Plank
  • big kicks
  • swimmer kicks
  •  V-Sit
  • big kicks
    • There is no rest between each exercise, instead rest at the conclusion of all five exercises. Then rest for five minutes and repeat the series twice more.

Cardio:

Run for 45 minutes at a moderate intensity.

Flexibility:

Hold each stretch for 15-30 seconds:

• Straddle Splits: This stretch is important to climbing as it increases a climber’s lateral flexibility for moves like stemming in a corner.
• Hamstring: keep your legs straight and bend down to your feet. Keep your back flat for an alternate version of this stretch.
• Hip-flexor: Flexible hip-flexors allow a climber to high-step.
• Quadricep: preventative against injury
• Triceps stretch: preventative against injury
• Shoulder stretch: increases mobility
• Calf stretch: increased heel-hooking mobility

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Banana lockoffs… inspired by @steghiso ??. Was surprised at how difficult it is to chew, swallow, n breathe while maintaining tension haha. Give it a shot

A post shared by Daniel Woods (@dawoods89) on Apr 4, 2020 at 8:51am PDT

Featured photo by Hamish Thomson of Jennifer Ramses