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5.15c Climber Sends 5.14d Four Climbing Days in a Row

Jorge Díaz-Rullo sent four 5.14d routes over a period of five days in Spain

Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo recently ticked four 5.14d (9a) routes at the famous Cova Gran in Santa Linya, Spain. According to his 8a.nu page, on April 1, he redpointed Ingravids Shers (R3) 5.14d. Two days later, he sent JoeDan 5.14d. The day after that, he sent the R2 extension of Fabelita, again 5.14d. Dani Andrada made the first ascent of the route back in 2008. Díaz-Rullo onsighted the first pitch of the route (5.14b) the week prior. And finally on April 5, his fourth climbing day over a period of five days, Díaz-Rullo sent Fabela pa la Enmienda 5.14d.

Díaz-Rullo had this to say about his string of big sends via Instagram: “Friday was an amazing day for me, sending ‘Fabelita’ (8c) onsight… But the next few days would be even better. Saturday I sent ‘Ingravids Shers R3’, Sunday I rested, Monday I sent ‘Joe Dan’, Tuesday I sent ‘Fabelita R2’ and yesterday, Wednesday I sent ‘Fabela pa la Enmienda’. In addition to doing some easier ones in between. All in all, an amazing week! Thanks to everyone for the fanaticism and motivation in the cave! This continues!”

Díaz-Rullo is quickly becoming one of the best sport climbers in the world. On February 5, he made the first ascent of his first-ever 5.15c, Mejorando la Samfaina, a link-up of Mejorando Imagen 5.15a/b and Samfaina 5.15a. He has sent nine 5.15b’s or 5.15a/b’s in the past, all of which were in Spain, including El Bon Combat and First Round First Minute—both Chris Sharma first ascents in Catalunya. On February 15, he onsighted two 5.14a’s in a single day. In early March, he made the first repeat of Alex Megos’ The Full Journey 5.15b.

Díaz-Rullo is currently taking a break from his long-term Margalef project, the unclimbed Cafe Colombia. He has spent over 120 sessions over three seasons on the route, which could be 5.15c or even 5.15d in grade. Here’s what he recently had to say via Instagram about his ongoing battle with the route:

“And with that I have finish yet another season here in Margalef, more specifically I have closed the battle with this route for now. I know that failing is part of the process and I also know that I have done and fought as hard as I could, but now I can’t help but feel sad and disappointed with myself after another loss.

“It was a very long season, there were quite a few days with good conditions and I was closer than ever, but I just couldn’t send. Once again, I have realized that the physical aspect of climbing is not everything and that the mental part plays the most important role.

“120 days in total, 3 seasons…. I never thought I would find a challenge so complicated and that would push me so far to the limit in every way.

“Now it’s time to get away from this place a bit, give myself a little break from the same route and the same movements. And of course, prepare to come back stronger in a few months and try to finally finish off this project.”

Dani Andrada on Fabelita (R2) 5.14d