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Acephale New Routes and Stored Gear Removed

At least seven new routes up to 5.13 were added to the lower wall this summer

Last week, Climbers Access of Alberta (CASA) was contacted by Alberta Environment and Parks (AEP) in regards to the stored climbing gear at Acephale, one of Canada’s most popular crags. The crag also got a number of new routes this year.

Acephale has been a go-to crag for Calgary and Canmore climbers for decades. While there are many old classics, such as Altius 5.12c, Army Ants 5.13c and Leviathan 5.14a, there was still room on the Lower Wall for development.

Maddy Marchuk established Conception 5.13b, Underestimated 5.12c and Chawesome Corner 5.12b. Marcus Norman sent the new Gumbino Invasion 5.12c and Eidolons 5.13a. Ysbrand Nusse climbed the new Sol Food 5.11a. Mason Tessier sent the new Fresh Cut 5.11b and Casanova 5.12b. Pat Delaney climbed the new Sport Yoga 5.12b. And there are still a number of closed projects on the Lower Wall.

Climbers were given until Sept. 2 to clear all buckets and rope bags from the crag. There were dozens of rope bags that had been hanging for years at Upper Acephale and by Sept. 1, all but a few had been removed.

CASA announced on Facebook on Sept. 3: I am super excited to say that Acephale clean up has been successful. As a community rallied around this hard, and the last of the buckets and ropes were taken out tonight. (We’ve already arranged for last sweep tomorrow to get some stuff that’s part way down the trail.) It should be noted that the clean up included someone cleaned out about 30 or so human poops!)

What’s important is that the people who climb at Acephale showed the stewardship and leadership to clean up their own and their friends gear. Well done! In case things didn’t work out, we did have a back up plan for a bunch of people to go in and pick the gear up on Tuesday and Wednesday. Its a testiment to community and we are glad to say we didn’t have to use plan B. There were people who stood up and certainly did extra (e.g., Sam Tucker and Tyson Martino), we all owe them a beer or two. Thanks everyone who helped out!

That said, there is a small amount left over gear and ropes that didn’t get picked up and were taken out at the end. If you want it back PM me directly. Its going to kept for a couple of weeks, and then donated to TABVAR or thrown out depending on its condition.

The remaining rope bags that were removed by climbers and CASA

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