Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo Win Kranj 2019

The fourth event of the IFSC Lead World Cup 2019 took place in Kranj, Slovenia nearly two months after the previous event concluded to host newly crowned World Champions and begin to set competitors apart in the overall season rankings.

Many big names were missing going into the women’s final in Kranj. Last year’s winner, Jain KIM (KOR) put in an excellent performance during the semi-finals, but did not advance due to countback and finished the competition in ninth place. To the shock and disappointment of the local crowd, recently crowned IFSC Lead World Champion Janja Garnbret (SLO) fell low on the semi-final wall, missing out on finals for the second time this season.

With Garnbret gone, the spot on the first-place podium was wide open, but the wall wouldn’t let the gold medal be taken so easily. In a fairly even split, the competitors either fell low on the wall around hold 20 or they managed to reach hold 34 before tiring out. It was the rising star of the Lead World Cup 2019 circuit, Chaehyun Seo (KOR) who narrowly squeaked out ahead of the competition to clinch her third gold medal of her debut season and definitively separate herself from her competitors in the overall rankings.

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Whaaaaat?? Gold medal again? I never thought about my debut is successful like this happened? Between many strong climbers, I was really lucky this time? It was not my best climbing and best conditions? Now training for next worldcups?? Thanks for everyone who cheering me?? @tanksoyoung @jongkukseo @allezjain @sasol_climber @kimlan_o3o_ 이번 4차 월드컵에서 3번째 금메달을 목에 걸었습니다! 이번엔 무언가 어딘가 부족했지만 운이 좋았던 것 같습니다? 앞으로 남은 월드컵 더 열심히 준비해서 좋은 모습 보여드리겠습니다! 밤 늦게까지 응원해주신 모든분들 감사합니다?? @blackdiamond @blackdiamondkr @thenorthface_kr @umhonggil_humanfoundation @allthatsports.official #worldcup #kranj #4th #???? #3rd #gold #??

A post shared by seochaehyeon (@chaehyun.s) on Sep 29, 2019 at 4:43pm PDT

The route for the men had a wider range of results that included low falls and one successful top. Canada’s Sean McCOLL climbed at a steady pace up the wall and set an early highpoint. However, the next few climbers out were unable to reach the same height, with two falling at hold 12. McColl finished fourth. Adam Ondra (CZE) was determined to make his performance in Kranj end differently than at the world championships. He smoothly made his way up the wall and past the previously set highpoint to achieve the only top of the day to the roaring cheers of the crowd.

The IFSC World Cup 2019 is moving on to the final two competitions of the year. In just over one month, the climbers will come together again in Xiamen, China from October 18 to 20 for the final Speed World Cup of the year and the penultimate Lead World Cup. As the overall rankings get tight, a surprise win could move anyone ahead to as spot on the final podiums. Check out the current rankings here.

Highlights