Adventurous Ice Route Climbed in Quebec
Two climbers just linked established pitches into a high-on-the-wall flow of ice
Nelson Rioux and Jérémie Morin have completed an adventurous climb on Mount de l’Equerre in Hautes-gorges de la rivière Malbaie in Quebec. The route is possibly new as there has never been a report it.
It climbs the first three pitches of the classic Pomodor before crossing left through two other routes, Tarte aux Pommes and Malade Iminaire, to end below an aesthetic pitch of ice. It had a long approach through deep snow.
The ice season in Quebec has been somewhat mixed with great conditions in some areas but sub-optimal in others. The classic Montmorency Falls has been deteriorating in the recent warm weather, though a cold snap will surely bring most routes back in conditions.
The hardest new route established in the province this winter was likely the 120-metre M9 WI6 called Yggdrasil at Rivière-Ste-Marguerite in Côte Nord. You can find regular weekly updates about Quebec ice climbing conditions here, and there’s an Avalanche Quebec site that gives daily avalanche forecasts for the Chic-Chocs here.

