Aidan Roberts Climbs Yosemite’s Hardest Boulder
Carlo Traversi's The Dark Side is one of the most technical and subtle problems in the world
On January 5, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of The Dark Side V16 (8C+) in Yosemite National Park. Established by Carlo Traversi in December 2023, the climb is found on the Thriller Boulder in the forest beside Camp 4. Traversi projected the problem on and off for years before his eventual FA, which he called his most difficult boulder ever. “It’s the most detail-oriented climb,” said Roberts about the climb. “The difficulty is really not in the individual moves, it’s how they all piece together.” Patagonia just released a short film in which Roberts discusses all the intricate micro-beta of the climb, which you can view below.
“The perfect line in the perfect place,” said Traversi on his 8a.nu page after his first ascent. “The infamous project of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. Too many days to count on this one. By far the hardest thing I’ve climbed. Such an insane condition battle. Split tips, too humid, too dry, too warm, too cold…an endlessly frustrating battle. Started sitting, pulling off the ground on the far left side of the obvious jug rail. The grade is a suggestion. It’s always hard to tell, especially when you dive this deep.”
Aidan Roberts is one of the top boulderers on the planet. He has three V17s to his name. In October 2022, he was the first climber to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. He was also the first British climber to tick the grade. In February last year, he made the first ascent of Spots of Time V17 in the U.K.’s Lake District. The following month, he made the first ascent of Arrival of the Birds V17 in Chironico, Switzerland. He’s has several V16 first ascents, including Vecchio Leone Sit and The Lion’s Share in Switzerland and Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Sit in the U.K., the first two of the grade in the country.
