Alaskan King Cobra is Variation to Classic Cobra Pillar
King Cobra climbs 15 pitches of splitter granite in the Ruth Gorge
King Cobra is a new variation to the Cobra Pillar on the east face of Mount Barrill, Ruth Gorge, Alaska. The New Zealand alpine team climbed an eight-pitch variation, the climbers included Dan Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price.
“Five and six inch wide crack rocketed straight up the proudest part of the prow,” said the trip report. “Kim was in heaven. He led out mega pitches of glorious heel-toes and butterfly jams, as good as anything in Tasmania. It was some of the highest quality climbing any of us had ever encountered in the mountains.”
King Cobra leaves Cobra Pillar at pitch four and regains it at pitch 10. The route has finger cracks, offwidths, chimneys and run-outs between 5.8 and 5.11. “The thought that this might become a real classic spurred us on in our mission. Having climbed in many of the popular granite climbing zones, we genuinely thought this route contained some of the best alpine rock climbing in the world. Where else do you find 15 sustained pitches of 5.10 to 5.11 crack climbing stacked on top of each other, in the mountains, where each one in its own right would be a crag classic?” Full story and topo here.