Alex Megos Agrees With Bibliographie Downgrade to 5.15c
Megos questioned whether his grade of 5.15d was right, and is relieved Stefano Ghisolfi climbed it and weighed in
Stefano Ghisolfi recently made the second ascent of Bibliographie 5.15d in France. The first ascent was on Aug. 15, 2020, by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi gave Bibliographie a personal grade of 5.15c, Megos has agreed with.
Ghisolfi had been projecting Bibliographie for a number of months. He’s a six-time world cup winner and had previously climbed Change 5.15c and Perfecto Mundo 5.15c.
About the grade, Ghisolfi said, “I know I can climb a 9c [5.15d], but for a route to be that grade it needs to be much harder than the existing 9b+s [5.15c’s], and Bibliographie for me isn’t.” Read more on his post below. Olympic bronze medallist Jacob Schubert said, “Lots of respect, not just incredibly strong but also being honest about your feeling of the grade even with such a big achievement is not taken for granted. True role model!”
Megos replied with, “I underestimated how much of a difference it makes to know you have the right beta. On Bibliographie I thought I had good beta until I came back a season later to completely change it again. And that happened twice. So in the end I probably spent the bigger part of 60 days figuring out beta, changing it again and not being sure that I can do it… I became more and more convinced that it had to be harder than anything I’d ever done before.”
Bibliographie was a multi-year project for Megos and is located at the famous Céüse. The name is a nod to Biographie just a few metres to the left, which was one of the first 5.15a lines. Megos famously sent Biographie 5.15a on his third full try back in 2014, and in July this year sent another Céüse line called Pornographie 5.14d in four attempts.
The world’s hardest sport routes include Change 5.15c by Ondra in 2012, La Dura Dura 5.15c by Ondra in 2013, Vasil Vasil 5.15c by Ondra in 2017, Silence 5.15d by Ondra in 2017, Perfecto Mundo by Megos in 2018 and Bibliographie 5.15c by Megos in 2020.
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
