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Alex Megos in Canada and Frees Projects in Rockies

Alex Megos is one of the world’s leading climbers. In the two days he has been in the Rockies he has put down two old projects. At Ravens Crag near Banff, he sent a project from over 20 years ago called The Prow. The route was bolted by Peter Arbic up a steep prow, but never completed or sent. Many climbers had tried it over the years and many were shut down by a crux dyno. Megos sent the project on his second go and eliminated the dyno with a strong static move, grading it 5.14b. Sonnie Trotter extended the route farther up the prow and doubled its length on the same day. Megos attempted it, but said it was difficult and will have to return for another session.

Alex Megos on The Prow. Photo Gaby James
Alex Megos on The Prow. Photo Gaby James

The following day, he ventured with Trotter to Planet X at the back of Cougar Creek between Lady Mac and Grotto Mountain north of Canmore. The crag has a number of hard routes, including Shooting Star 5.12d, Meconium 5.12a and Sticky Buns 5.13a. There are also a handful of 5.14s, such as Illusionist 5.14a and Kurgo 5.14a. In 2014, Evan Hau sent a 2007 project and called it The Prestige 5.14c. On Megos’ first trip to the wall, he sent another old project and graded it 5.14c/d, one of only a few routes in Canada with the grade.

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