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Alex Megos Climbs Canada’s First 5.15 Fight Club

Alex Megos has sent Canada’s first 5.15 at Ravens Crag above the town of Banff and called it Fightclub. The north-facing wall has a number of steep 5.12s and 5.13s, but the real gem is a striking prow that rises above the forest. The route had been known as the “prow project” for over 20 years. Bolting started in the early 1990s by Peter Arbic and was attempted by some of Canada’s best climbers over the past two decades.

Arbic only bolted the lower half, which Megos sent at 5.14b on his second try. Canmore-based Sonnie Trotter then extended the route on the same day and discovered a cryptic sequence for Megos to unlock. After five or six days of projecting, Megos sent on Aug. 14, two days after his 23rd birthday. Megos said it is as hard as First Round, First Minute 5.15b..

Alex Megos on the Prow Photo Brandon Pullan
Alex Megos on Fightclub 5.15b Photo Brandon Pullan

Ravens Crag was mostly developed by Arbic and friends and the routes were named after Edgar Allen Poe poems, including House of Usher 5.12a, The Hermit 5.13b and The Masque 5.13b. The prow project never adopted a name from an Poe poem. However, Fight Club the movie is said to be a take on Poe’s story William Wilson.

The main characters of each are going through internal conflicts with self-made doubles known as Wilson (William Wilson) and Tyler (Fight Club). It is the second 5.15b in America after Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain by Chris Sharma. It is likely one of the 10 hardest sport climbs in the world.

Megos has been in Canada for over two weeks and has climbed a number of new 5.14s, including Full Nelson 5.14d. His longest project sent in Canada was Bunda de Fora, which took him less than three tries. Megos is in Canada for another two weeks and will be heading to the West Coast. When Arbic was asked about the attention Ravens Crag was getting, he said, “It is one sweet little sweep of rock. I used to wonder if anyone would ever walk up there but me.”