Alex Megos Sends Adam Ondra’s Change 5.15c
Fresh off the Paris Olympics, he sent the historic route on only his fifth day of effort
Alex Megos just announced that he redpointed Change 5.15c (9b+) in the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway. Established by Adam Ondra in October 2012, the route was the world’s first route graded 5.15c. The line is broken up into two distinct halves. Change P1 5.15a features a shoulder-destroying crux that has shut down many climbers over the years. The full-length Change takes Change P1 and adds a 5.14d pitch on top, upping the total grade to 5.15c.
Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change in September 2020. Seb Bouin then repeated the line in August 2022, suggesting a grade of 5.15b/c. It’s important to note that both Ghisolfi and Bouin used kneepads, which Ondra did not. Megos has called the route 5.15c. He used one kneepad on his right leg– a rare tactic for him as he famously hates climbing with kneepads.
“Words can hardly describe my feelings right now,” said Megos about Change via Instagram. “The disappointment from Paris was still so present when we arrived in Flatanger. I desperately needed a vacation, but I also wanted to check out some routes. I guess I’m not the guy for big vacations. After 4 days of checking out Change I was able to link both pitches on day 5. I hadn’t done either one of the parts individually, but I felt like with a really good try I could actually send. Thankfully that really good try was the first real attempt I made from the ground with a potential send in mind.
“I used one kneepad on my right knee, which does make the crux of the first pitch a little easier than the original beta from [Adam Ondr]a. The top doesn’t change too much with a kneepad, when you have really bad kneebar skills like mine. The rests feel more comfortable though. I’m still far away from the kneebar wizardry other people have mastered (but I’m willing to learn). Hats off to [Adam Ondra] for doing the FA 12!!! years ago. Felt like climbing a real piece of history.”
Change is Megos’ third route of the grade, and his first ever 5.15c repeat. He made the first ascent of Margalef’s Perfecto Mundo in May 2018. In August 2020, he FA’d Bibliographie 5.15c in Céüse. He has many 5.15b first ascents and repeats to his name, including the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b earlier this year.
Megos participated in the Boulder & Lead Combined event at the Paris Olympics a couple of weeks ago. After a tough Boulder semi-final round, an early footslip on the Lead semi-final route ruined his chances of making the finals. He placed 13th overall in the competition.
Adam Ondra’s FA of Change 5.15c
Stefano Ghisolfi sending Change 5.15c
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