German sender Alex Megos has been in Canada for nearly a month and has made the fourth ascent of Dreamcatcher 5.14d in Squamish. The first ascent was in 2005 after Chris Sharma and Sonnie Trotter bolted it and Sharma sent it.
The second ascent was in 2009 by Sean McColl and the third ascent by Ben Harnden in 2012. Harnden used different beta than Sharma or McColl when he used small holds skipped by the others and said after, “Dreamcatcher truly demands a technically well-rounded climber, more so than any other line I’ve seen.”
Click on the clip below to watch the short film with Megos on Dreamcatcher by Andreas Lerch.
American Mike Foley has been attempting Dreamcatcher on and off for a few years, as has Squamish locals Jamie Finlayson and Tim Emmett. The Cacodemon Boulder route climbs up a technical slab to an overhanging wall with a thin sim and sloping rail. Located on the back of Cacodemon Boulder, there were dozens of climbers watching Megos for his attempts. It took Megos less than a day in warm weather to send the classic hard line. Watch Sharma send in the clip below.
Alex Megos has climbed Canada’s first 5.15 (Fightclub 5.15b at Ravens Crag), flashed The Path 5.14R, onsighted The Shining 5.13d on Mount Louis and climbed a number of 5.14s, including the new Full Nelson 5.14d at Acephale. Rock on Megos.