Alex Megos Sends Story of Two Worlds V15
And talks about the ethics behind using knee pads on hard climbs
Alex Megos has climbed The Story of Two Worlds V15 in Cresciano, Switzerland. It was first climbed in 2005 by Dave Graham. Earlier this year, Megos made the first ascent of Bibliographie, the world’s second suggested 5.15d sport route.
Megos worked on the hard climb for four days, with two days dialling in the beta, a rest day during rain and then a send on day four.
Megos noted that he didn’t used a kneepad and talked about the ethics about hard sends. He said, “There are various videos online from lots of different climbers, all theoretically climbing the same boulder and claiming the same grade: V15. It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning how things are climbed.”
There have been many debates about using pads to boost you up for a sit start to using kneepads to make moves easier. Megos told 8a.nu earlier this year: “I think everyone can climb with kneepads if he wants to. But he should be honest whether or not he thinks it makes it easier. Some people just climb to tick a grade. So even if they find new beta or use a kneepad which makes it easier they still claim to have done a certain grade although it might have been easier. I just hope people can be honest.”
The Story of Two Worlds is one of the most repeated V15s, with sends by (not a complete list): Megos, Graham, Dai Koyamada, Paul Robinson, Jernej Kruder, Carlo Traversi, Giuliano Cameroni, Gabriele Moroni, Toru Nakajima, Jimmy Webb, Jan Hojer, Samuel Ometz, Martin Stráník, Alex Khazanov, Paweł Jelonek, Christof Rauch, Keenan Takahashi and Niky Ceria.