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Alpinist Solos 1,000-foot New Granite Line

Simon Gietl has added another impressive first ascent to his resume of technical climbs

Veteran alpinist and Italian mountain guide Simon Gietl, 40, has made the first ascent of Lumina, a 300-metre M7 A0 on the northeast face of the Italian peak Wildgall. He climbed it rope-solo style.

He first tried it on April 10 but had to bail due to bad weather, so he stashed some gear knowing that he’d return. Upon returning he took his route to the top up a “striking” line that followed corners and cracks.

About the climb, he told Planet Mountain, “The mixed climbing was demanding but could be protected well with good cam placements. Still, loose flakes demanded full attention. In the central section of the wall, rocks repeatedly crashed onto the face from above — a stark reminder of why this route should only be climbed in cold conditions.”

He left only a few pitons on the route before reaching the summit at noon, noting that he “was elated — alone, surrounded by silence and sunshine. He then rappelled the route Seltene Erden.

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