Amity Warme Repeats Another 5.13+ Corner
Not long after climbing a 5.13dR trad corner, Warme has repeated another test-piece on The Chief
Top American trad climber Amity Warme has been spending some time in Squaimsh over the past few months, where she’s repeated some of the most most difficult routes in town. Her most recent redpoint is of Stélmexw, a five-pitch 5.13+ on The Chief. Jesse Huey made the first ascent of it in September 2022, and it got its first repeat this summer by Connor Herson and Brent Barghahn.
Earlier this year in Squamish, Warme repeated Tainted Love 5.13R trad on The Chief, a route first climbed by Hazel Findlay. She has an impressive list of repeats and first ascents over the past few years. In Yosemite, she’s climbed Father Time 5.13b 20 pitches, Golden Gate 5.13a 36 pitches ground-up, Freerider 5.13a 31 pitches (twice), NIAD at 11:45, The Niels Tietze Memorial Route AKA The Nexus 5.13a/b 9 pitches, The Final Frontier 5.13a/b 9 pitches, The Dream Team 5.13a 10 pitches, Scarface Free 5.12 9 pitches, Wayward Son 5.12 14 pitches and The Crucifix 5.12 5 pitches.
About Stélmexw, Warme said, “It was an epic challenge. My legs were quivering, threatening to dance right off the power smears as I continued upward. Somehow I managed to sent with a no falls day, in spite of some seriously wet sections on the early 5.10s and the final 5.12c pitch. We just threw together a handful of clips to make a quick recap video. We aren’t video people and aren’t pretending to be either, but we’re open to providing some glimpses into our experiences if y’all are interested.”
Warme said that her time in Squamish is almost over and that her and her partner will be heading back to the U.S.A. soon. If you have an Apple device, you can find the current issue of Gripped magazine here.
Warme’s Send
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