Amity Warme has become the fourth woman to free Golden Gate, the 36-pitch 5.13b on El Capitan, after five-and-a-half days on the wall. Canadian Bronwyn Hodgins sent it earlier this season, and it had been freed by Hazel Findlay and Emily Harrington in the past.
In an interview with Hodgins, she said, “Trying really freaking hard with thousands of feet of air below my toes. The pitch I worked on the most was The Move pitch, a long sustained 5.12 into a short and powerful boulder problem at the top. The boulder was really hard for me. It took me three days to even figure out the move! Then on the fourth day I managed to stick the crux six times, but it still felt desperate! I didn’t know if I’d be able to execute when it really mattered, after the 5.12 climbing and on day 4 or 5 of a Big Wall.” Read the story here.
In early May, Warme climbed The Nose in 11 hours and 44 minutes with Will Sharp. Also with Sharp, she sent The Final Fronteir, a nine-pitch 5.13b in Yosemite. Last summer, she became the first woman to send Enter the Dragon 5.13+R in The Fins, Idaho, where she also climbed Vesper 5.13d/14a.
Warme is currently pursuing a master’s degree in sport nutrition at the University of Colorado in Colorado Springs, as she tours around the country living in a van with her husband, Connor. She’s been in Yosemite for over a month.