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Another Huge New Ice Climb in B.C. is WI3

It's one of several big routes in the Top Gun area north of Lillooet in the Bridge River area

Photo by: Danny O'Farrell

North of Lillooet is an ice climbing area with routes over 400 metres and up to WI6. The area was only recently discovered and is called Top Gun.

On Nov. 26, Tim Nielsen and Josh Zahl climbed a new “fun and varied route in a fantastic setting.” They called it You Can Be My Wingman Anytime and graded the 300-metre WI3. It’s one of the biggest new routes at the grade climbed in a decade in the province.

The first pitch follows WI2 which leads to a narrow canyon and smaller ice steps. The third pitch has a pillar of WI3 and more mellow ice. Pitches four and five follow the line up, under a chocstone, and to a final ice bulge.

“A big thank you to Danny O’Farrell for the beta and stoke,” said Zahl. O’Farrell recently shared an image of the umclimbed route after he and Steve Jane made the first ascent of the 420-metre Great Balls of Fire WI4.

To find the route, leave the Bridge River FSR at (50.81677, -123.14205) and hike up a gully, bypassing difficulties to the right. The base of the climb is at (50.81159, -123.14587). They rappelled after the first ascent.

Pitch three. Photo by Josh Zahl
Lead photo: Danny O'Farrell