Another New 5.15b for Loic Zehani
At only 21, he's climbed 10 new 5.15s in France. His most recent was bolted by his dad
There was a time when a new 5.15 route would be considered breaking news, but nowadays they’re established almost every week. Loic Zehani, 21, has just made the first ascent of Brooklin 5.15b (9b) in Orgon, France, a route bolted by his father, Christophe. This is his 10th first ascent of a 5.15.
”After about 20 very hard and powerful moves on natural holds it ends with Macumba Club 5.14c,” Zehani said on 8a.nu. “Three approach moves lead to the first crux: a very hard move from a bad crimp to go to a shoulder followed by three ‘campus board’ moves (six moves around V12). Then you have the second crux with, in particular, a bad little undercling followed by a nice dynamic move (eight moves around V11). After all this, you climb the second part of La Connection, 30 moves of resistance (around 5.14a). This route is almost natural. I propose 9b for this route. It took me around 15 days of work.”
Previous to Brooklin, Zehani had sent three other new 5.15bs, all at Orgon: Harlem, Chikane and Obsession. His first 5.14d was at 14 years old, and he’s currently on Edelrid’s and Tenaya’s athlete teams. He’s now planning on trying other projects in the area and in Spain.
There are now dozens of 5.15b routes around the world, but only a handful of 5.15c or harder. For a list of the world’s 10 hardest sport routes visit here.