Another New V17, This Time in Austria
Mount Doom is a proposed V17 from Austrian climber Nicolai Užnik
Nicolai Užnik just announced that he made the first ascent of Mount Doom in Maltatal, Austria, suggesting a difficulty of V17 (9A). The bloc is the first of the grade for the 24-year-old Austrian climber. Mount Doom is a low start to Hide and Sick V14, which had been an open project for years.
Hide and Sick is a crimpy and shouldery boulder established by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder in 2016. Paul Robinson made the second ascent the following year, and since then it’s been sent by a few other top climbers including Martin Stráník, Kim Marschner, and Janja Garnbret. Užnik topped the problem in 2020.
Užnik projected Mount Doom on and off since 2021. “…Over the years, I never felt like it was possible – until last fall, when I managed to do all the moves and made some promising links,” he said on Instagram about the project. “In January, it was the first time I thought I had an actual chance of sending it and started giving good attempts.” He continued projecting the line through February, but ended up twisting his ankle from a fall, forcing him to take a break. It appears this time off was exactly what he needed to finally get the send.
Before Mount Doom, Užnik’s hardest boulder to date was making the first post-break ascent of Emotional Landscapes in Maltatal. A V15 before the breakage, Užnik graded the problem V16. According to his 8a.nu profile, he has six V15s to his name. In November 2024, he flashed American Gangster V14 in Zillertal, Austria. He has extensive IFSC Word Cup experience, making the finals at multiple events over the past few years.
Paul Robinson on Hide and Sick V14
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