Spring is sending season at many of Europe’s steep crags thanks to a combination good temps and dry conditions. Two hard sport lines have had repeats already in April. Felipe Camargo has sent Chris Sharma’s El Bon Combat 9b in Cova de l’ocell. Camargo mentioned on Instagram that his thoughts were with top climber David Lama, who’s missing and presumed dead in the Canadian Rockies with Jess Roskelley and Hansjorg Auer.
“I dreamed with David Lama last night, woke up super sad… posted about him and was thinking of him all day… the pressure was just totally off, I put things in perspective and felt like it didn’t really matter if I sent anymore, at least not today. I gave a good first try but broke a foot hold and fell. On my second try the wind kinda of stopped, I made through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time I didn’t feel any pressure.
“All I could think while resting was how f*@cking good David Lama climbed. I remembered some of the World cups that I watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed, the wind picked up again and i just went for it…didn’t hesitate, climbed fast and sent! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately.”
“El Bon Combat” 9b ✅! What a especial day! I was really feeling the pressure to send today…the weather looks really bad from tomorrow onto the next week and the filmmakers are leaving soon, could have been the last shot to send with them and who knows…maybe the last shot before i had to go back to Brasil! I dreamed with @davidlama_official last night, woke up super sad…posted about him and was thinking of him all day…the pressure was just totally off, i put things in perspective and felt like it didn’t really matter if i sent anymore…at least not today! I gave a good first try but broke a foot hold and fell. On my second try the wind kinda of stopped, i made through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time i didn’t feel any pressure…all i could think while resting was how fucking good @davidlama_official climbed…i remembered some of the World cups that i watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed, the wind picked up again and i just went for it…didn’t hesitate, climbed fast and sent!! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately… that is a moment that i will never forget! Thanks @ethan_pringle for all the support and fun times working on this route together! Thanks @chris_sharma 👑 for the vibes today and Martí for bolting this amazing route! And thanks @davidlama_official for another time influencing my climbing from whenever you are! Im drinking for you today 🍻 🎥: still from #dedicate coming out soon on @redbulladventure
Seb Bouin and Kamil Ferenc have sent Papichulo 5.15a in Oliana. Chris Sharma established the 50-metre route in 2008 and with 20 sends to date, it’s up there with the most climbed 5.15 in the world, along with Biographie and La Rambla.
Bouin said he’s going to focus his energy on La Dura Dura 5.15c, which has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra. Bouin also recently sent Mamichula.
There are only five 5.15c routes in the world: Vasil Vail sent by Ondra, Perfecto Mundo by Alex Megos and Stefano Ghisolfi, Change by Ondra, Move by Ondra, and La Dura Dura.
Another day, another send with the classic Papichulo 9a+ (?) ✅. After sending my project Mamichula 9b, I decided to try Papichulo. As I knew the firts part, it took me few tries to do it. An other nice line of Oliana. Yet I couldn't be happy today with the latest new I heard. Three iconics climbers/mountaineers, David Lama, Jess Roskelley, and Hansjörg Auer are presumed dead in an avalanche in the Canadian Rockies. If there is still one hope we are with you. It's a remind to us, life is precious, we have to enjoy it, success or not success. Be alive and able to do what we want is a chance. Une autre journée, un autre enchaînement avec le classique Papichulo 9a+ (?) ✅. Après avoir enchaîner mon projet Mamichula 9b, j'ai décider d'essayer Papichulo. Comme je connaissais la première partie, cela m'a prit quelques essais pour le faire. Une autre belle ligne d'Oliana. Cependant je ne peux être heureux avec la dernière nouvelle que j'ai appris. Trois iconiques alpinistes, David Lama, Jess Roskelley, et Hansjörg Auer, sont présumés mort dans une avalanche dans les rocheuses canadienne. Si il y a encore un espoir nous sommes tous avec vous. Que cet incident nous serve de rappel, la vie est précieuse, on doit la savourer, avec où sans succès. Etre vivant et capable de faire ce que l'on souhaite est une chance. Pic by @williclimb @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @altissimo_grabels @kayland_official @amazonas_ultralight @natureclimbing