April 2019 Sends of El Bon Combat 5.15b and Papichulo 5.15a
Spring is sending season at many of Europe’s steep crags thanks to a combination good temps and dry conditions. Two hard sport lines have had repeats already in April. Felipe Camargo has sent Chris Sharma’s El Bon Combat 9b in Cova de l’ocell. Camargo mentioned on Instagram that his thoughts were with top climber David Lama, who’s missing and presumed dead in the Canadian Rockies with Jess Roskelley and Hansjorg Auer.
“I dreamed with David Lama last night, woke up super sad… posted about him and was thinking of him all day… the pressure was just totally off, I put things in perspective and felt like it didn’t really matter if I sent anymore, at least not today. I gave a good first try but broke a foot hold and fell. On my second try the wind kinda of stopped, I made through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time I didn’t feel any pressure.
“All I could think while resting was how f*@cking good David Lama climbed. I remembered some of the World cups that I watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed, the wind picked up again and i just went for it…didn’t hesitate, climbed fast and sent! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately.”
Seb Bouin and Kamil Ferenc have sent Papichulo 5.15a in Oliana. Chris Sharma established the 50-metre route in 2008 and with 20 sends to date, it’s up there with the most climbed 5.15 in the world, along with Biographie and La Rambla.
Bouin said he’s going to focus his energy on La Dura Dura 5.15c, which has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra. Bouin also recently sent Mamichula.
There are only five 5.15c routes in the world: Vasil Vail sent by Ondra, Perfecto Mundo by Alex Megos and Stefano Ghisolfi, Change by Ondra, Move by Ondra, and La Dura Dura.