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Ashima Shiraishi Sends Evilution Direct V11 Highball

This is her first highball problem, a nice addition to her accomplishments that include V15 sends

Ashima Shiraishi has sent Evilution Direct, a test-piece V11 highball in Bishop. The problem follows the right exit variation to Jason Kehl’s 55-foot highball Evilution V12/13R. In 2016, Nina Williams became the first woman to send Evilution Direct, watch below.

Evilution to the Lip, an acceptably tall route at 16 feet, is where most climbers decide to end their efforts. The rest of the problem continues up nearly 10 feet of technical slab moves, which is followed by 20 feet of low-angle scrambling to the top. Putting the entire problem together is a daunting task.

In 2016, Shiraishi, then 14, climbed Dai Koyamada’s Horizon at Mount Hiei, Japan. The climb made her the first female and the youngest person to send V15. Three months later, she sent her second V15, Sleepy Rave, in the Hollow Mountain Cave of the Grampians.

Nina on Evilution Direct