Balin Miller Solos the Slovak Direct on Denali
This is the first known solo ascent of the famous alpine climb, which has less than 20 ascents since the 1980s
American alpinist Balin Miller has soloed the Slovak Direct, a difficult alpine line that climbs to the right of the Cassin Ridge on Denali. There have been less than 20 ascents of the test-piece climb and this is the first solo on record. The grade of the 2,700-metre route has been documented in the American Alpine Journal as VI, 5.9X, M6+, WI6, A2.
The route was established by Slovak climbers Blažej Adam, Tono Križo, and František Korl over 11 days in 1984. In 2000, Steve House, Mark Twight, and Scott Backes climbed it in 60 hours, which was a groundbreaking time 25 years ago. In 2022, Sam Hennessey, Rob Smith, and Mike Gardner climbed it in 17 hours and 10 minutes.
Earlier this year, Miller made the second ascent and fire solo ascent of Reality Bath in the Rockies (read more about it here), and he recently soloed the North Buttress via the French Connection of Mount Hunter in Alaska. Miller has become one of the most accomplished alpinists of his generation.
Miller has repeated other challenging routes, including Slipstream (WI4+, 900 m), simul-solo; The Harvard Route (5.9, C1, AI3+ 1,200 m); Come and get it (M7, WI6) solo; Nemesis (WI6, 160 m) solo; Whiteman Falls (WI6-, 90 m) solo; Bridalveil Falls (WI5+ 120 m) solo; Unknown White Powder (WI6+, M5) onsight FA; and Sandstone Samurai (5.11 R/X 210 m) onsight. For weekly alpine news and history visit The Bold and Cold here.
