Beyond Good and Evil is Getting Climbed
Watch climbers repeat the test-piece alpine climb on its 20t anniversary below
The famous alpine route in Chamonix known as Beyond Good and Evil, which is found on Les Pelerins, is in condition and is being climbed this month. It was first climbed in November 1992 by Mark Twight and Andy Parkin.
The duo had attempted the thin ice line in 1989, around the same time as the Berlin Wall crashed down in Germany. The 10-pitch 550-metre M5 was so thin on the first ascent, the two climbers couldn’t get one ice screw in. They added a skull and crossbones on the topo, denoting a scary and dangerous final pitch. The route’s name was inspired by the quote by Nietzsche that read, “In the house of pain, we were chained together searching for our truth, beyond good and evil.”
In 2013, for the 20 anniversary of the first ascent, Marion Poitevin and Sébastien Ratel were filmed repeating it. The video includes interviews with Twight and Parkin and the climbers who made the second ascent, François Damilano and François Marsigny.
It was shot by top videographer Jon Griffith, who said after the shoot, “The adventure began and as we quested up the route I found myself on the sharp end of some of the best climbing I’ve done in a long time. Freeing the A1 pitch was slow going but mind-blowingly good. It felt like a special day to have Beyond in such virgin conditions without a soul about.” Also below is a photo and a video from Beyond Good and Evil this month.
Beyond Good and Evil in 2013
Beyond Good and Evil in 2024
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