Big Sends this Week from Puccio, Megos, Hörst and More
From first "brushpoint" ascents to V13s and 5.15 repeats
The past few weeks have seen big sends from many of the world’s top climbers in America and Europe, from Alex Puccio ticking hard problems to Alex Megos make the first “brushpoint” ascents of Frankenjura routes.
Here’s a quick recap of some headline-making sends from the first few weeks of summer.
Alex Puccio has been spending a lot of time in Rocky Mountain National Park, where she recently sent Stranger in a Strange Land V13, which is found at nearly 4,000 metres elevation and requires an hour-and-a-half hike. Over the past month, Puccio has climbed over 20 problems from V11 to V14.
“I tried this boulder one day when I was 20 years old so 11 years ago and fell on the last move,” said Puccio. “Went back for the first time since then today and sent 2nd try from the start. Also sent the other two V11’s on the wall really quick today as well.”
Cameron Hörst, the oldest son of legendary climbing trainer Eric Hörst, sent White Lightning 5.14d in Wild Iris. The route links Heart Full of Ghosts 5.14a and Moonshine for a “hard V12” crux section.
At Frankenjura, crusher Alex Megos recently made the first “brushpoint” ascent of Father and Son 5.14b. At most crags, when you’re finished with your project, it’s good etiquette to brush the holds. Watch below.
Giuliano Cameroni recently made the first ascent of Power of Now V15, which means he has now done more than 15 problems at the grade with a number being first ascents.
Natalia Grossman, 19, recently flashed Clear Blue Skis at Mount Evans. In 2019, she won two silver medals at the Youth World Championships and finished in seventh overall at the Vail World Cup.
In the U.S.A., Nicholas Milburn climbed his second 5.14d with a tick of Algorithm at the Fins. The technical line was first climbed by Jonathan Siegrist in 2012. “It took me five weeks to learn how to grab the crux pocket,” he said, “but damn did learn the subtleties of that hold. It took me six weeks to send the route, but damn did I sent. I even topped out and untied. I thought that was pretty cool. By the time I sent Algorithm, it felt really good. For such a long route, it’s surprisingly cruxy. I only ever stuck the crux move twice from the ground, and the first time I stuck it, I slipped off immediately afterward. I felt silly but was excited by my progress. Overall, it is an incredible route on incredible rock in an incredible area.”
Cedric Lachat recently made the fourth ascent of WoGü in Rätikon, which Adam Ondra freed in 2009. Beat Kammerlander bolted it in 1997 and the name is a tribute to legendary Wolfgang Güllich. The 350-metre bolted nine-pitch route tested Lachat, who said it’s his most difficult send ever. He’s previously climbed nearly 10 5.15a’s.
The route was graded 5.14b, but Edu Marin suggested an upgrade to 5.14c after the second ascent. Roland Hemetzberger then made the third ascent.
Other noteworthy ticks include Chloe Play, 18, with send of Mind Stream V12; Brooke Raboutou and Puccio’s send of The Automater V12; Jose Luis Palao second ascent of Apocalipsis de la Gioconda 5.15b; and Katie Lamb’s first V12 with Nothin’ but Sunshine.
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