Cabeza Clava is Monster New Slab Climb in Peru
This is the teams second new climb in Peru in less than three weeks
Cabeza Clava is the newest big rock climb in the Cordillera Blanca region in Peru from Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce. The three Spanish climbers established the route on the south face of Huanka Punta in the southeast corner of the Cordillera Blanca.
Less than three weeks earlier, they established a massive route on the north face of Cerro Tornillo. About their newest 5.11 470-metre slab, they said, “One of the most beautiful routes we have opened in our career.”
The big new route only took the three experienced climbers two days to develop, of which the second day offered up bad conditions. Because the peak is south of the equator, the south faces are the shady sides of the peaks. Iker said, “It was like being in the fridge for ten hours. The cold, between 0°C and -5°C, froze our fingers and toes and it was very hard to progress under these conditions. Only thanks to our bomb-proof motivation did we get to the summit.
“Most of the nine pitches were protected with trad gear and only on three of them were we forced to place a few bolts. All the climbing runs up fantastic limestone, such good quality that the ascent of these perfect “organs” is one of the most beautiful we have ever done.
“We believe this is the first time we have opened a route of such quality and beauty in mountains. We are happy.”
Cabeza Clava
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