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Canadian and Argentinian Make Historic Fitz Roy Climb

Canadian Tony McLane and Argentinian Jorge Ackermann sent big on Fitz Roy last week.

According to Rolando Garibotti, the two climbers made the first one day ascent and fourth ascent overall of the 1,250-metre El Corazon on Fitz Roy last week. They left at 5 a.m. and reached the summit 20 hours and 30 minutes later. “To avoid the crux aid pitch they made a traverse/pendulum over to the left,” wrote Garibotti.

The first ascent was in 1992 by Michal Pitelka and Kasper Ochsner. Five year ago, Sean Villanueva and Nice Favresse made the second ascent in 28 hours. In 2013, Carlitos Molina and Inaki Coussirat made the third ascent.

Sean Villanueva on pitch 18 of El Corazon. Photo Sean Villanueva and Nice Favresse
Sean Villanueva on pitch 18 of El Corazon. Photo Sean Villanueva and Nice Favresse