Canadian alpinist Don Bowie and Finnish climber Lotta Nakyva were rescued by the Pakistan military from Broad Peak, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan. A photo on CTV News here shows the two climbers smiling and in good spirits.
Bowie is originally from Newmarket, Ont., but has spent the past few decades based in the U.S.A. He’s gone on to become a leading Himalayan climber and is one of only a few Canadians to have climbed K2.
The two were part of an international winter expedition to Broad Peak, the world’s 12th highest mountain. The team was led by Denis Urubko. Nkyava said after, “We got caught in a storm. My right hand was going numb, along with my toes. I was frozen to my core. We kept on climbing until somewhere around 6,600 metres when Don made the decision to set camp. Long story short, we stayed there for two nights, all digits alive, cold af, we ran out of food, low on gas (dehydration), took a beating from some winds when coming down but eventually got down yesterday to basecamp.”
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UPDATE: Broad Peak / K2 Winter Expedition. PLEASE READ CAREFULLY FOR THE CORRECT DETAILS. This video was taken on Broad Peak yesterday morning at 6900m as I descended the mountain for the last time.Throughout this entire expedition I fought every day as hard as I could, climbing in the bitter cold day in and day out, staying commited and focused and determined to summit. However, I did not mentioned it here on Instagram, but ever since my early chest infections my coughing has become worse and worse. Each night my lungs became more congested, my coughing fits more frequent and violent. Yesterday, at Camp 3, I finally threw in the towel and quit this expedition. I had to get some medical attention- enough is enough- and I need to think about my future health. Denis and I climbed back.down to base camp, and I called my insurance company and explained the situation. They immediately sent a helicopter and flew me out. I am now at the hospital, and x-rays confirm that I have been operating for sometime now with bronchial pneumonia- the doctor says I have likely had it the entire expedition- a result of the early infections. For now, I'm just grateful to be down and getting treatment. Other quick details with more info later: 1) I do not and never have had HAPE. Period. In base camp I thought it was bronchitis. But it's pneumonia. 2) There are storms and high winds forecast for (at least) the next 12 days making summit improbable before then. 3) Denis remained on the mountain to try again. GO DENIS WE ARE CHEERING FOR YOU!!! 4) @lottahintsa assessed the weather situation and determined to also leave the expedition- she told me she will post updates on her profile starting tomorrow. 5) I will post more in the days to come, but for now I just want thank each one of you for following us on this expedition- all your encouragement really means the world to me. Thank you and stay tuned for lots of pics and video now that we have proper WIFI. Don- – – – – #mountaineering #climbinglife #noteverest #nooxygen @montage.tv #highaltitudeexperience #adventure #climbhigher #alpinizm #karakoram #k2 #k2winter #broadpeak #alpinista #wspinaczkalodowa
Urubko said he will stay on the mountain and make a solo attempt. The climb is fixed up to 7,500 metres and he has two weeks left in meteorological winter. Last summer, Urubko soloed Gasherbrum II in 48 hours.
Nearly 20 years ago, Urubko gave up a chance to summit K2 in winter. From 7,750 metres, he descended with an ill Marcin Kaczkan back to basecamp.
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#BPK2winter update (a few more)❄️ Part of the process of ending an expedition and staying sane (it’s quite a shock to be back in civilization) is analyzing the expedition, learning and moving your focus onto the next one. Here I’m gonna list some of the most awesome things that just happened! ❄️ I had the chance to climb with two of the best climbers in the world, Denis Urubko and @donbowie , watching them, asking questions, learning and trying to keep up with them. (Btw, Denis is still in BC, and with his experience he might have the chance to summit. Cheering on you, Denis!!!) ❄️ Winter climbing teaches you so much more than summer climbing. Four words: Hard. Blue. Steep. Ice. For hundreds of vertical meters that you climb up and down, over and over again. ❄️ Having to climb straight from BC to C2 in winter conditions. Tough but rewarding, a good test! ❄️ EDIT: at least the guys didn’t know any other woman that had been this high in winter Karakoram, but we found out from @montagnamagica that Tamara Stys had been at 7250m on Gash I! Huge respect woman!! (Nanga Parbat is part of Himalaya) ❄️ Definitely expanded my comfort zone. ❄️ And additionally I am forever grateful for the awesome BC team we had!! Mohsin, Jahved and Ali Abas, thank you for taking so good care of us, for providing good food and some kerosene warmth! Tajamul, our liaison officer, thanks for watching after us! ❄️ I think I’m in a pretty awesome place to start training for the next big expedition 😍Photo by Don Bowie #expedition #adventure #winterclimbing #sheadventures #womenwhoexplore #mountains #8000m #broadpeak #mountaineer