Miles Adamson is one of Canada’s top high-ball boulderers with a number of stout lines to his name.
He spent this summer in the Canadian Rockies repeating hard sport routes, including a repeat of Honour and Glory 5.14+.
He’s currently in Red Rock, where he’s been sending classics and adding new test-pieces to the area.
So far, he’s ticked Seek and Destroy V10 second try, Meadowlark Lemon V13, Fountainhead V9 and the first ascent of Northeast Arete V6 on Plumbers Crack Boulder as a 10-metre highball.
The most difficult of his first ascents is Rootin Tootin Cowboy Shootin, a V13 highball in the First Creek Area.
“It is listed as a highball project so this is probably a first ascent,” said Adamson. “I couldn’t find any online content from Nalle or others on the climb.”
Adamson described the problem as: “The sequence is strangely similar to the crux of Disbelief 5.15b at Acephale.
“I’ve been training this exact move for months. Lock off to a high left handed gaston, then do a move that makes no sense. I stabbed to another gaston up high with only my thumb, and mashed my pointer finger in it once I stuck it. Getting the foot up was also brutal. The top out from there is still about V6.”
Adamson’s other V13 first ascent is called Nightmare and is found in the North Wall Boulders in Squamish.
“While I think it’s one of the hardest boulders I’ve done,” said Adamson about his new V13, “I also sent it really fast. So I’m not sure about the V13 grade but I think it’s right.”
Adamson’s New V13