Canadian Returns to Nepal for Epic Tengkangpoche Pillar

In 2019, Canadian Quentin Roberts and Finnish climber Juho Knuuttila reached a new highpoint on the huge north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487 m) in in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal. They turned around near the top of the alpine wall due to a lack of ice. The expedition also included Canadian Tim Banfield, who sat out the Tengkangpoche attempt, but climbed some ground on Cholatse (6,440 m) in deep snow. The trip was partially funded by the John Lauchlan Award, which is based in the Canadian Rockies.

While Roberts and Knuuttila didn’t reach the summit, their attempt was a success because of their new high-point, and because they made it back to the ground safe and sound. Other Canadians had attempted routes on the icier walls to the right in the past, including Will Gadd and Scott Semple in 2005 and by Matt Maddaloni and John Furneaux in 2006. There have been a number of bold routes climbed on the northern aspects of Tengkangpoche over the years, just nothing up the pillar.

For spring 2020, Roberts has teamed up with ace American alpinist Jesse Huey. The two are currently at the base of the striking feature and are hoping to start climbing within the next few weeks. You can follow along their expedition on Instagram below.