Canadians Nominated for Piolet d’Or 2020 Longlist
For first ascents on peaks in Western Canada and Greenland
The longlist of significant ascents from 2019 has been released by the Piolets d’Or. The award, which has gone through many growing pains over the past few decades, recognizes significant first ascents in the alpine climbing world.
It takes a number of things into consideration, including style, innovation, commitment and respect for both the environment and local people. In 2020, the recipients will be announced at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from Sept. 11 to 22. The even will take place if possible, but more than likely will be held virtually due to covid-19.
In a huge announcement this year, Alpinism has been added by UNESCO to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
The nominated Canadians include Ian Welsted (previous recipient for first ascent on K6 West with Raphael Slawinski), Maarten van Hearen and Charlie Long. Canadian ascents include those on Mounts Fay, Waddington, Howse and Storm.
The 2020 recipient of the Piolet d’Or lifetime achievement award has not been announced, but in its 10-year history it’s only been awarded to men.
In 2019, one team ascent and two solo ascents were awarded the golden ice axe: Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone for their first ascent of Latok I (7,145 m) from the North, via the North Ridge/Face and South Face; David Lama’s first and solo ascent of Lunag Ri (6,895 m) via the West Ridge and Hansjörg Auer’s solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West (7,157 m) via the West Face.
Below are recognized ascents from Canada or including Canadians, for the full list visit here.
Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Mount Waddington (4,019 m): Simon Richardson (UK) – Ian Welsted (Canada)
Canadian Rockies, Mount Fay (3,235 m): Brette Harrington (USA) – Luka Lindič (Slovenia) – Ines Papert (Germany)
Canadian Rockies, Howse Peak (3,29 5m): Hansjörg Auer (Austria) – David Lama (Austria) – Jess Roskelley (USA)
Canadian Rockies, Storm Mountain (3,158 m): Ethan Berman (USA)- Maarten van Hearen (Canada)
Cape Farewell, Torssukatak Fjord, Peak (1,303 m): Rune Harejo Jensen (Norway) – Charlie Long (Canada) – Andreas Widlund (Sweden)
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"You've got to have good guys." A lot goes into alpine climbing but this slice of wisdom is key. Simon (@simon_scottishwinter ) is icing his shin in his ultra-minimal, ultra-rad Rab tent on day 1 out of 5 on our traverse of Waddington. He had taken a boulder to the shin in the Selkirks a week earlier. His red, bruised shin wasn't too happy every time he broke through the crust on our kilometers long walk up the lower Angel Glacier. But you can't keep a tough guy down. Being an engineer, Simon is good with materials, and somewhat desperately fashioned a race-horse style leg wrap out of his yellow camp-mat (try that with a neo-air). #alpinism #team #selkirkssuck