After weeks of waiting for the the right conditions, Sasha DiGiulian, 22, and Carlo Traversi, 27, climb Magic Mushroom 5.13a on the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
After their send, DiGiulian wrote the following on her social media, “I’ve never tried harder on anything in my life. I am wrecked and can’t believe it’s real. Four days and three nights and the dream is complete! We did it!”
DiGiulian is the the first female to free the climb and they are the first American team. Their original plan was to climb La Paciencia 5.13b, but poor weather forced them to change objectives.
The 20-pitch Magic Mushroom was first climbed in 2007 by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schali, but they used some aid. In 2009, Stephen Siegrist and Ralf Weber made the first free ascent. The route has been climbed a number of times since the first free ascent.
Traversi wrote on his social media, “That’s it, that’s all, our Eiger Dreams are now a reality…. The experience had its ups and many downs, but I learned a lot and left everything I had on the mountain. I’m deliriously exhausted, but happy that this trip ended with success.
“It was definitely not a glamorous send, but the lessons we learned in the mountains over the past few weeks will stick with me for the rest of my life.”
Watch a feature length film about the Eiger: