Carlo Traversi Sends Beth Rodden’s Meltdown 5.14c Trad
Carlo Traversi has made the second ascent of Beth Rodden’s Meltdown 5.14c in Yosemite, one of the world’s most difficult cracks.
Traversi made the second ascent after years of sporadic projecting. He first tried it in 2013.
He returned in 2014 and found new beta, got close in 2015 and didn’t find great conditions in 2016 or 2017. “This season it all came together,” he said in his write up below.
Traversi competed at a number of world cups and has ticked two 5.14d lines, he recently repeated Ethan Pringle’s Everything is Karate 5.14c/d.
The first ascent of the 20-metre Meltdown was on Valentine’s Day in 2008 by Rodden, one of the strongest crack climbers in the world at the time.
Notable attempts by Ron Kauk (who bolted the anchor and first tried the line), Enzo Oddo and Tommy Caldwell assured the climbing world that the grade was on point.
“There comes a time in everyone’s climbing life when they find a route that really captivates them,” said Rodden in a Climbing magazine article. “I don’t think it is limited to just one, or even two or more. But for every climber there are routes that get their attention for whatever reason—history, aesthetics, movement, the unknown.”
“The few months prior to Meltdown, I wanted to repeat some of the single-pitch climbs around Yosemite and give my body and mind a break from the demands of El Cap climbing,” Rodden said in 2008.
Before her first ascent of Meltdown, she had freed Lurking Fear VI 5.13c, El Corazon VI 5.13b and the Nose VI 5.14a.
“In the fall, Upper Cascade Creek has a calming white-noise charm to it, but as the river grows, it creates an intensity that highlights the countdown of days until the route becomes unclimbable due to spray and wetness,” said Rodden.
“I was barely able to do it before the waterfall got too big.”