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Check out the New Rockies’ Unicorn Canyon

A group of climbers have put in many hours to develop a new crag in Kananaskis Country.

The new Unicorn Canyon is between Barrier Lake and Nakiska Ski Resort in Kananaskis Country near Calgary. The crag is on the southwest side of Mount Lorette, which is were the Lorette Creek cascades down.

Directions to the new Unicorn Canyon in Kananaskis Country.  Topo from online guidebook here.
Directions to the new Unicorn Canyon in Kananaskis Country. Topo from online guidebook here.

Craig Doram and Peter Nelson produced an online guidebook that highlights two main areas, Sunshine Castle and Rainbow Wonderland; as well as two smaller areas called Pot of Gold and The Moat.

Some of the most difficult routes are still projects, but the handful of hard routes that have been sent include Money Jane 5.13d, Boa Boa 5.13c and The Long Way 5.13a. With nearly a dozen hard projects open for sending, there is no telling how many potential 5.14s exist at the esthetic new wall.

For a complete list of routes and more information, visit here for the online guidebook

Zak McGurk cruising the second ascent of Money Jane, a 35-metre 5.13d.  Photo from the Unicorn Canyon online guidebook here.
Zak McGurk cruising the second ascent of Money Jane, a 35-metre 5.13d. Photo by Craig Doram from the Unicorn Canyon online guidebook here.

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