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Classic Runout 5.14 Trad Route Flashed in France

The technical, physical, and spicy 40-metre sandstone climb saw three repeats over the course of two days

Le Voyage in Annot is one of the hardest trad climbs in France. James Pearson made the first ascent of of the line in 2017, grading it E10 7a, which roughly equates to spicy 5.14- in the Yosemite Decimal System.

The 38-metre route starts with a 5.14 crack before moving into a good rest position. A traverse on tiny holds follows, with the finishing moves in an upper crack with lousy jams. Throughout the route, there is just enough protection to keep it relatively safe. In 2021, Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher, and Siebe Vanhee all repeated the route. Late last month, 52-year-old Steve McClure redpointed the line.

Earlier this month, Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe pulled off an incredible flash of Le Voyage. The day prior, 23-year-old French climber Mathieu Miquel sent the route after only spending six days on the line. It was one of his first trad routes ever. He has still yet to take a fall on trad gear.

Scottish climber Robbie Phillips redpointed the route the same day as Berthe. “I’m very happy to achieve my goal of the trip, now I can relax a bit, go sport climbing and get one last ounce of fitness for the Scottish trad season,” Phillips said via Instagram.

Berthe gathered beta from Phillips and Miquel before setting off on his flash attempt. “Wow… I flashed Le Voyage (E10-8b+) in Annot,” he said, also via Instagram. “Climbing flowly, for the first time, on this sandstone unbolted wall, was probably one of my best experiences as a climber. What a feeling to clip the anchor of this amazing 40m-line!

“Thank you so much [Robbie Phillips] and [Mathieu Miquel] for the flash, all the betas and infos you gave me made this goal real – congrats on your ascents ! Thank you to [James Pearson] for putting up such a gem!”

 

James Pearson’s FA of Le Voyage E10 7a