Climber Rope-Solos 300-metre 5.13d in Verdon
Siebe Vanhee made quick work of two test-piece multi-pitch routes on tall limestone walls
Photo by: Jean-Elie Lugon
During a short trip to the Gorges du Verdon, Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee successfully made rope-solo free ascents of Une Jolie Fleur dans un Peaux de Vache, a 300-metre 5.13d, and and Take it or Leave it, a 110-metre 5.13b. He climbed both on the first day of trying them.
Earlier this year, Vanhee and Sébastien Berthe suggested that the 600-metre Rayu in Spain be downgraded from 5.14a to 5.13d – read about it here. Below are Vanhee’s thoughts about his recent rope-solos.
After my rope-solo experience on Picu Urreillu last August I couldn’t stop thinking about another adventure like that. A short trip to the Verdon was planned already, the perfect place for another solo objective. My main objective was Une Jolie Fleur. I choose this line because of its steep nature. In general, I prefer steep climbing and long pitches for rope-solo, falls are softer and safer. I also wanted it to be a little harder in the grade compared to El Pilar on Picu Ureillu, which is graded 8a+. I love to see how free I can climb in rope-solo.
Last Saturday I decided to give Jolie Fleur a try. With a misty and dark atmosphere, I arrived at the base of Parois du Duc at 8 a.m. After a F6b first pitch I arrived at the steep crux pitch of the route, the long F8b [5.13d]. Nervous but very confident I took off. I was confident because I had managed to onsight the famous F8b Hulkosaure two days before, also a steep and long route of the same grade, so I felt on good form. But now it was a different game, it was rope-solo.
My set up was awesome, I control the [belay device] a lot better and had an ultra-thin single rope of 8,5 mm. All this gave me the confidence I needed to onsight this pitch, which I did. Pumped up to my ears but thanks to some small rests and kneebars I kept going. I clipped the anchor, descended to clean the pitch, jugged back up and hauled my bag up. Now I really had a chance to onsight the whole multi-pitch.
I climbed the next F7b pitch to the base of the first F8a, a slightly steep mono tufa on a blank black wall. This pitch is incredibly beautiful. I racked up and took off, I felt pumped… too pumped. My rope solo system wasn’t working so well this time, the rope didn’t feed properly, but I continued. Close to the end, I got so pumped. I should have rested longer, but this is the disadvantage of climbing on your own, it’s hard to take a proper rest. I fought against the pump, but my device kept blocking, in the middle of a hard move I couldn’t climb up or down anymore. The rope blocked me and I fell. Stupid mistake. I had put the belay device the wrong way in my belay loop (the right way for belaying someone else). I checked out the next moves and returned to the previous anchor. Fifteen minutes rest and I blasted up the pitch in my second go, this time with a smoothly running rope.
Only one more F8a left. A very long and exposed pitch high above the river of the Verdon. It was a fight, but this time I pulled off the onsight. But it was a close call, at the very end I had to even downclimb back to a kneebar rest to be able to successfully do the last sequence. Enjoying the void and the smooth slab in the last F6b I arrived at the summit.
Such an incredible feeling to freeclimb a wall like that on my own. To document the ascent, I invited Jean-Elie on the wall. Compared to El Pilar, I wasn’t really on my own this time. I had installed the static ropes from above the day before so Jean-Elie could jug up in front of me. I didn’t like the idea of installing the ropes before my attempt but had to make this sacrifice to get some footage of the ascent. I did my best not to look at the moves from above and just install the ropes.
Take it or Leave it – (F8a / 110m) Rope solo Two days later I was curious to test my vertical rope-solo skills. I hadn’t done the classic Take it or Leave it opened in 1984 by Patrick Edlinger so I thought this could be a great test-piece for me to try. The first two pitches went well, although I had to get used to the style and verticality of the wall. In the third pitch, graded F7c, I made a first fall making a beta mistake. It took me a while to continue to the top of this pitch. The falls were static and intense, not the best experience. I still have to figure out a better way to have more dynamic falls on vertical terrain.
After a quick send of that pitch on my second go I arrived at the base of the famous F8a [5.13b] with the big move. Also, in this pitch I had to work the moves a bit before I send on my second go. For sure the technical style and the fact that I was rope-soloing added to the difficulty.’
Rope-solo climbing is something exciting and new for me. I can’t climb as freely yet as if I would with a climbing partner, but the mental and technical part of rope-soloing gives it such an interesting dimension. Also, the fact of being alone on the wall is very new to me. I love the social part of climbing, but the challenge of dealing with everything on your own is so rewarding. Especially the mental challenge, you have to do it yourself, you have to stick with it and stay focused at all times.
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