Climber Spends 1.5 Hours Sending 5.14d
Leo Boe several good rests that allowed him to get his power back on his last day in Flatanger
Leo Boe just climbed the classic Thor’s Hammer, which was first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2012 at 5.15a. He later suggested it’s 5.14d after new beta and kneebars were found. Boe spent 1.5 hours leading the big pitch during his redpoint.
Boe, who’s climbed several 5.14ds, said that because he was tired from climbing for a few days that he had to take long rests between the cruxes. On 8a.nu, he said, “I had to fight my way into this last rest. Knowing the final part and how people usually fall there was scary, especially since I only did the sloper rail once on this trip. My beta was all a mess in my head. If you do a wrong shuffle along the slopers you might get too pumped and slide off. This was not an option for me as I was leaving Flatanger. Therefore I stayed there for 35 minutes to make sure I was as rested as I could be.”
After his rest position where he stayed for 35 minutes, he said, “You get a pretty good kneebar combined with a heel-toe cam, but it’s painful and tough cause the foot is slopey. The left kneebar is not no-hands, but is very useful to recover the right leg. If I was to fall on the last couple of moves after being on the wall for 1.5 hours I would be heartbroken. Luckily I didn’t.”
Over the past 10 years, the Flatanger cave in Norway has become one of Europe’s most sought after climbing areas by people around the world. With monster routes on solid granite from 5.11 to 5.15, there’s something for everyone. Also in Flatanger this week, Arne Farestveit climbed the 65-metre Valhalla 5.14d after around 50 sessions.
