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Climbers Sending Endless Summer 5.13d at Acephale

Dan Beland on the crux of Endless Summer Photo Brandon Pullan

Endless Summer at Acephale has been one of the most sought-after routes at the grade since the first ascent by Scott Milton in 2001.

The route was once graded 5.14a but downgraded to 5.13d, despite a large hold breaking in the crux a few years ago. It’s named after a 1960’s surf film.

The climb can be described as a powerful and bouldery route that climbs a short wall to a roof, which leads to more pumpy climbing.

A number of climbers have sent it this year, including Dexter Bateman, Andrew Funk, Adam Ondra, Dan Beland and Zach Watson.

Canmore climber Becca Frangos sent it in 2016 and described the crux as: “It begins about four bolts up just as the angle changes to the steepest section of the climb. It starts off with a burly jump off a small pinch to a decent flat rail (previously something you could match before the hold broke a few years ago) from there it is all about staying precise and efficient for the transition over the lip.

“After sticking the jump, there are two hard moves to two flat holds then you pop over the lip to a pitiful sloper and throw out left for a decent undercling. From here most people do one more big bump move and huck for the horn (the hold that is better then the rest but still not a jug) instead when I hit the undercling I cross far out left to a two finger flat crimp, drop knee and cross over my left hand to another two finger flat crimp above and reach the horn.

“From the horn there is one more big move up before reaching two pockets you can rest on before the top section. This is the end of the crux. The next four bolts before the anchor aren’t too difficult once you get the moves dialed but the mono sequence guarding the anchor can be heartbreaking if you are too pumped.”

Ondra made the first onsight of the steep route during his visit earlier this year. It took Alex Megos two tries to send it.

Beland, who is based on the West Coast, was visiting Canmore for a few weeks and managed to tick it during his first season at Acephale.

As the smoke and heat continues to slow down climbers and keeps them at cooler crags, there will surely be more sends of Endless Summer this season.