Climbers Speed Up the Famous North Face of the Eiger
Benjamin Védrines, alongside Leo Billon climb the north face of the Eiger in just over four hours
In spring, alpinists Benjamin Védrines, alongside Leo Billon, completed an ambitious traverse of three of the most iconic north faces in alpinism: the Grandes Jorasses, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger. Between April 6 and April 11, the pair climbed classic routes on each wall in the space of just one week, combining speed, efficiency, and careful judgement of conditions.
The project stood out not only for the climbs themselves, but also for the way Védrines travelled between them. He moved entirely under his own power, cycling, running, skiing, and paragliding between valleys and peaks, without using any motorised vehicle. Billon, who focused on a different training approach, drove between the mountains, allowing each climber to follow a style aligned with their individual objectives.
On the Eiger, Védrines and Billon climbed the famous Heckmair Route in four hours and 10 minutes, maintaining a steady rhythm on one of the Alps’ most historic and demanding faces. They then turned to the Matterhorn, ascending the Schmid Route in five hours and 40 minutes. The final challenge was the Grandes Jorasses, where they completed the Colton–McIntyre route in four hours and 20 minutes, rounding out the trilogy.
Despite the impressive times, Védrines emphasised that the climbs were not about pushing to the absolute limit. He described the ascents as being done at a “relaxed pace, without pressure,” highlighting the importance of control, safety, and enjoyment even in high-level performances.
Reflecting on the experience, Védrines pointed to the next generation of alpinists. He noted that many strong young climbers have the physical ability to move even faster and more efficiently, provided they develop the right mindset. He expressed hope that this adventure would help others break mental barriers and inspire further progress in modern alpinism, where style, simplicity, and self-reliance continue to shape new possibilities in the mountains.
