Home > Mountain

Colin Haley Solos Big Alpine Line in Alaska

Colin Haley has soloed the North Buttress of Begguya (also known as Mount Hunter) in one day. He first attempted the big feat in 2012, but retreaded less than 100 metres from the summit.

On Instagram, Haley wrote, “Like in 2012, I climbed the North Buttress via what I think is the line of least resistance, which is a combination of some terrain I ‘opened,’ some of Deprivation and some of the Bjornberg-Ireland.”

He noted his times as: schrund-to-cornice-bivy: 5:18, schrund-to-summit: 7:47, schrund-to-schrund: 15:22, base camp to base camp: 17:13.

“I’m pretty sure that all of those metrics are speed records, perhaps not just for the North Buttress, but for Begguya in general. (scroll through his images below)

In May 2012 I attempted to solo Begguya via its North Buttress, and in a moment of extreme exhaustion, turned around a mere 80-100 vertical meters below the summit. That is not a lot of mountain left on a roughly 2,000m ascent, but like our first try on the day trip Torre Traverse with @alexhonnold, I knew I wouldn't be satisfied to leave my effort unfinished. On Friday I finally had my opportunity to complete this dream, and I'm almost happy that I didn't succeed the first time, considering how much better I performed 5 years later. Like in 2012, I climbed the North Buttress via what I think is the line of least resistance, which is a combination of some terrain I "opened," some of Deprivation, and some of the Bjornberg-Ireland. The time stats: schrund-to-cornice-bivy: 5:18, schrund-to-summit: 7:47, schrund-to-schrund: 15:22, BC-to-BC: 17:13. I'm pretty sure that all of those metrics are speed records, perhaps not just for the North Buttress, but for Begguya in general. However, those speed records are relatively unimportant compared to my personal comparisons – Compared to my 2012 attempt I climbed drastically faster, more calmly, more confidently, and with way less fatigue. I always find personal improvement to be very rewarding, and seeing how I've progressed gives me greater satisfaction than the fact that I finally completed this goal. In any event, I'm stoked, happy to be back in Seattle with @aceeaux, and ready to binge on fresh food! @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @lasportivana @lyofood

A post shared by Colin Haley (@colinhaley1) on

Advertisement

“However, those speed records are relatively unimportant compared to my personal comparisons – Compared to my 2012 attempt I climbed drastically faster, more calmly, more confidently, and with way less fatigue.

“I always find personal improvement to be very rewarding, and seeing how I’ve progressed gives me greater satisfaction than the fact that I finally completed this goal.” Listen to Gripped editor Brandon Pullan talk with Haley in a 2015 conversation below.