Comp Climbing Star Mejdi Schalck Tears It Up in Squamish
He completed Canada's most iconic sport route, multiple V14s, and several hard flashes
French climber Mejdi Schalck recently finished up a climbing trip to Squamish, B.C. When most people think of Schalck, they think of modern comp climbing. The 20-year-old is one of the brightest stars in the sport and one of the best at new-age comp climbing movement. On the World Cup circuit, he often makes quick work of wild paddle dynos, pendulum swings, and coordinated double clutches.
Schalck’s skills on plastic evidently translate to rock climbing. On a recent Magic Wood trip, he sent an impressive two V14s (Power of Now and The Never Ending Story), four V13s, and many V12s and V11s. The Never Ending Story V14 is a popular Chris Sharma line that many of the world’s top boulderers have climbed over the years.
In Squamish, Schalck started his trip with a redpoint of Dreamcatcher 5.14d (9a). The route doesn’t need much introduction. Now famous worldwide, the route was freed by Chris Sharma back in 2007. Canadian Sean McColl made the second ascent, Squamish local Ben Harnden made the third, and Alex Megos the fourth on only his third attempt. Since then it has seen repeats by several top climbers including Jimmy Webb, Paige Claassen, Michaela Kiersch, and Lucas Uchida, among others. Two visiting Japanese climbers ticked the line this summer – Jun Shibanuma and Hiroto Shimzu. Squamish local Tristan Baills completed the line as well.
“This climb has always been in my mind,” said Schalck about Dreamcatcher on Instagram. “I remember years ago watching the video of [Chris Sharma] doing the FA, the first time being in front of it felt crazy. I’m glad that I was able to send it pretty quickly. After working all the moves, I was able to quickly redpoint up to the last crux, I rested a little bit and few sessions later I sent it! On this special period I wanted to discover a new place to try to clear my mind. The past few weeks has been honestly hard for me, going to Squamish was one of the best decision I’ve made. I had a really good time climbing here.”
After sending Dreamcatcher, Schalck focused on bouldering. He ended up racking up an incredible tick list, especially considering he had to deal with summer temps. His highlights include redpoints of The Reckoning V14, Deadlift V14, and Black Magic V13 and flashes of Shelter V12/13 and Summoning V12.
Schalck’s trips to Magic Wood and Squamish come after narrowly missing out on the opportunity to compete in the Paris Olympics. He placed seventh overall in the Olympic Qualifier Series, but due to the two-athletes-per-gender-per-country rule, he didn’t qualify for the Summer Games as his French teammates Sam Avezou and Paul Jenft placed above him.
In 2023, Schalck won golds at the Boulder World Cups in Hachioji and Seoul. He also won silver at the Boulder World Championships in Bern and bronze at the Boulder World Cup in Prague. On the Boulder World Cup circuit in 2022, he placed first in Salt Lake City and third in Meiringen.
In Magic Wood and Squamish, Mejdi matched personal bests in terms of outdoor climbing grades. He’s sent two V14s in the past, including Mécanique Élémentaire in Fontainebleau in 2021 and the classic Off the Wagon in Ticino in 2022. According to his 8a.nu profile, before Dreamcatcher, he had two other 5.14d’s to his name – Shortcut in 2020 and Bio Sharma Graphie L2 in 2023, both located in France.
Schalck’s Squamish Bouldering Ticklist
- The Reckoning V14
- Deadlift V14
- Black Magic V13
- Shelter V12/13 (flash)
- Summoning V12 (flash)
- The Method V12
- Frontside V12
- Merlin V12
- Room Service V12
- The Egg V11
- Black Hole V11
- Encore une Fois V11
- Squaminator V11
- The Black Council V11
- The Perfect Cave V11
- The Reckoning Stand V10 (flash)
- Resurrection V9 (flash)
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