Controversial Squamish Boulder Problem Renamed
What was once The Megg V16 is now Fool Me Once V14
If you follow Squamish or Canadian bouldering news, you’ve likely heard of The Megg. A first ascent of the problem was claimed in January 2023 with a grade assessment of V16. Andy Lamb climbed the line in June 2023, suggesting a double downgrade to V14. Lucas Uchida and Ethan Salvo repeated the problem later that year, both agreeing with the V14 assessment.
KAYA recently updated its Squamish bouldering digital guidebook for The Megg. As many in the Squamish bouldering community now question the claimed January 2023 first ascent, the problem has been renamed to Fool Me Once and its FA is now credited to Lamb. Squamish says goodbye to The Megg and hello to Fool Me Once.
Located on the backside of the famous Space Monkey boulder in Squamish’s Magic Kingdom area, the striking 20-foot-tall problem features bad feet, terrible slopers, crystal crimping, and highly technical movement. “It’s techy, subtle, and condition dependent – basically quintessential Squamish,” Lamb explained in an interview after his first ascent. “Such a stunning line to finish off,” said Uchida on Instagram after making the first repeat of the line. “Probably one of the best and purest in the forest.”
“Regarding the grade controversy, I think it’s on par with other V14s in Squamish,” added Salvo on Instagram about Fool Me Once. “But with better temps, and some more height I could see it feeling easier than that. Regardless, grade should never be the topic of a line this stunning and fun to climb on. Just get out there and enjoy the stone.”
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