Dai Koyamada Boulders Stunning New Line
He said that this is one of the best boulders that he's ever climbed, and that's saying a lot
Japanese legend Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Monolith, which he’s suggested a grade of V15/16 for, deep in the Hinokage Valley of Japan. The 48-year-old said the boulder is “one of the best problems of my life.”
Over the past few years, he’s made the first ascents of Kaikien V15, Okuro V15 and Mugen V15. He’s also opened several V16s over the years, including Nayuta, Epitaph and Story of Two Worlds.
In 1996, Koyamada won the Japanese National Championship. He spent four years competing before retiring, saying, “The real nature of my climbing resides in crags.” Before he retired, he placed fourth in a lead world cup. The 48-year-old bouldering legend climbed his first V15 in 2003 with the first ascent of Byaku-dou. On a rope, Koyamada sent Action Directe 5.14d in 2005, Hugh 5.14d in 2002 and made the first ascent of Logical Progression 5.14d in 2001. He then made the first ascent of The Wheel of Life V16 in 2004. In Switzerland, he repeated Dreamtime, which was the first V15, before it was downgraded.
“The line that runs straight up this overhang was incredibly alluring yet seemed impossible at first glance,” he said about Monolith. “To be honest, I thought that if I ever climb this line, I might quit hard bouldering altogether.” Watch him on a near-send go below.
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