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Dan Beland Sends Skaha Test-Pieces

Dan Beland has been on a tear in Skaha over the last few weeks. Sending some of the area’s hardest routes, the Victoria, B.C. climber recently sent his last project of his trip.

Skaha has been busy this spring with near-perfect weather and excellent climbing conditions. Beland arrived at the popular Okanagan Valley crag in early April and wasted no time in getting started.

He almost onsighted Salvation 5.12b at the Doctors Wall, but fell on the last move. On the same day and at the same wall, he sent the classic Dr. Megatrip 5.11d.

After a few days of rest, he was back at it with a send of The Beefmaster 5.13a and Goin’ Sailing 5.12a, both at The Belfry. “Desperate all the way,” said Beland about Beefmaster. “A good start to the trip.”

Then it was onto the Great White Wall with a send of Breakfast of Champions 5.12d of which he said, “Missed the kneebar on the onsight. Tried to muscle through, but it wasn’t having it. Second go.” On the same day, he sent Acid Test 5.12a and other classic lines on the Great White Wall.

Back at The Belfry, Beland sent the classic hard route The Replicant 5.13d and said, “The last move feels heroic.” He then made the trek to climb The Burly Mill 5.13a.

Dan Beland on The Replicant 5.13d. Photo Kim House
Dan Beland on The Replicant 5.13d. Photo Kim House

Over the next week, Beland sent Mambo Fresh 5.12a, Dr. Megatweak 5.12c, Italian Jam Shop 5.12a and a number of easier lines.

Moving back into the hard routes, he ticked Prestadigitor 5.12c, 12 Step Derailer 5.13a and Firewirer. “Great route,” said Beland. “Found better beta on the way down after power hauling my way through it.”

His most recent sends were Wings of Steel 5.12d, Building a Mystery 5.12a and Tale of Two Guys 5.13d. “Sounds like a lot has changed since the FA bringing the grade up a couple notches,” said Beland about Tale of Two Guys. “Getting to the first bolt has the hardest move for this short guy but the last bolt to the chains is all business too. Lots of good climbing once you’re passed the opening moves.”

Beland just sent his last project, Nexus 6 5.14a at The Belfy. “It’s a really great line with solid boulder problems throughout and a classic heart-breaker crux getting to the chains,” said Beland.

“Solid end to an awesome trip with great friends. Probably lower end 5.14a. For me, the moves in the lower half feel way harder than the upper section. Having a good pump moving into Replicant makes the upper crux exciting. Psyched.”

dan beland prestadigitor photo kim house
Dan Beland on Prestadigitor 5.12c. Photo Kim House

– Written by Gripped editor Brandon Pullan after Dan’s send of Nexus 6.