Swiss climber Dani Arnold has set a new speed record up the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Alps in a near sub-two-hour climb.
The 34-year-old climbed the Walker Spur via the Cassin Route in only two hours and four minutes by himself. Arnold also holds the speed record up the north face of the Matterhorn in one-hour and 46 minutes.
Ueli Steck still holds the record at two hours and 22 minutes up the Eiger’s north face.
“I am feeling unbelievably happy and very proud of my achievement,” said Arnold about his record that took three years to achieve. Just this year, he climbed the route three times to prepare.
“Around 80 per cent of the Cassin route on the Walker Spur consists of rock, which is more difficult terrain than ice for a speed ascent. The most demanding section was the steep and technically complex Rébuffat corner, since this part was very wet due to meltwater.”
Arnold also made the first winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia in 2010 alongside fellow alpinists, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siergrist.
Recently, Arnold also made the first free solo speed ascent of the icefall Beta Block Super in one-hour and three minutes in Kandersteg, Switzerland. He’s a new team member with MSR and longtime athlete with Mammut.
Interesting to note that the fastest times up some of the most iconic walls are within about 45 minutes.
The Nose on El Cap: 1:58:07 by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell
Eiger North Face: 2:22:07 by Ueli Steck
Matterhorn North Face: 1:46:00 by Dani Arnold
Grandes Jorasses North Face: 2:04:00 by Dani Arnold