Denis Urubko has established a new route on Gasherbrum II (8,032m) in Pakistan after climbing in a solo alpine-style push. Urubko, 46, has made his was down the mountain after his impressive effort. Originally, Maria Cardell was meant to climb with Urubko but she suffered an injury on the approach.
Urubko had arrived at camp one on July 30 with Canadian Don Bowie and other climbers, after many of them rescued Francesco Cassardo off Gasherbrum VII the week before. Urubko also took place in two other rescues in the area in the past few weeks. The Twitter account Russian Climb said, “He has been raised and trained in the old Soviet school of mountaineering –- he helps because this is what you have to do.”
Bowie and other climbers opted out of a summit push due to large avalanches and bad conditions, but Urubko found his route to be safe enough. He had no communication devices or supplemental oxygen and was out of sight for 24 hours until climbers saw him high on the peak on Aug. 1.
Urubko first climbed Gasherbrumm II in 2001 and then in 2011 he made the first winter ascent of the peak with Simone Moro and Cory Richards. Mid-July, he made it to the summit to acclimatize for his new route.
Urubko has also climbed the 14 8,000-metre peaks without supplementary oxygen and has climbed new routes on Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Broad Peak and Lhotse. Details about his more recent new route to be shared in the coming days.