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Edu Marin Repeats Big 5.14b in Switzerland

Edu Marin, 31, has made the second ascent of Wogu 5.14b in the Ratikon, Switzerland, with his father Francisco Marin belaying. It was bolted by Beat Kammerlander and first freed by Adam Ondra. The 250-metre route is one of the hardest long multi-pitch routes in the area. It climbs next to Die Unendliche Geschichte, which was also first sent by Ondra. The six pitches of Wogu break down to 5.13b, 5.14a, 5.14a, 5.14a, 5.13c and 5.13a.

Marin worked on the single pitches before sending the route as a whole. “One of the most difficult multipitchs in the world,” said Marin. “Sending all pitches separately was a long process, I needed several weeks to find the right methods. When I managed to send all pitches, I started the attempts to free climb all pitches in one day. It was another interesting process where I had to look for the best condition during the day, very complicated because climbing in south face and in August means to expect hot temperatures. From 9:00 am to 17:00 pm it was impossible to climb. I had to invest three attempts to make all the route in a row. The key strategy was to start climbing Wogü at 17:00 when the sun went down from the wall and make a quick and effective climbing. I only had two falls during the climb.” Marin has climbed Chilam Balam 5.15a/b in Spain and repeated other test-piece routes.