Home > News

Em Pellerin Onsights 5.12 Trad at Longhouse in Squamish

The crag has some of the best cracks in Squamish from 5.10 to 5.12

Em Pellerin has been one of Canada’s top trad climbers for the past few years, with an onsight of The Shadow 5.13a on University Wall and a repeat of La Zébrée 5.14 in Quebec.

Pellerin recently visited the Longhouse in Squamish, a crag discovered in 2012 by Joshua Lavigne, Paul McSorley, Colin Moorhead, Lydia Marmot, Mandoline Masse-Clark, Hazel Findlay, and Charlie Long, who said, “So far, no protection bolts have been placed here. The primary route developers hope that future routes in this area respect this ethic.”

As Hazel Findlay said, “The cracks aren’t like other cracks in Squamish, they are really steep and often wide, climbing more like the cracks of Yosemite than The Chief.”

Pellerin put down a rare onsight of The Shaman 5.12 trad, which is found at the Shaman wall with other routes including Longhouse 5.10, Crosmonaut 511+, Luebben or Leave It 5.10+, Peace Pipe 5.10- and High Priestess 5.8.

The Shaman climbs a striking line that rises behind an old cedar tree, which Pellerin was able to squeeze behind. Check out the photos below. For directions and the history of the Longhouse visit here.